Slowing Down on Bavaria's Romantic Road

This wasn't my first experience traveling along Germany's Romantic Road. Over the years, I've managed to add a day or two to the start or end of work trips in Munich to explore the countryside. This picturesque route, which extends from Füssen along the foothills of the Alps in the south to Würzburg in the northern part of Bavaria, is one in that I've long wished to explore at a slower pace.

A recent journey to England to celebrate a dear friends birthday, provided an opportunity to take the short hour-and-half flight to Munich to join Oktoberfest celebrations and experience a long, slow weekend on the Romantic Road.

Choosing where to slow down while traveling this part of Bavaria is challenging, as nearly every village on the Romantic Road is worth visiting, and exploring them all would take more than three days. Having previously explored the southern section of the route, including the Alps and Neuschwanstein Castle, I decided to head north. Many villages along this route are stunning, but Rothenburg ob der Tauber, with its cobblestone streets, medieval structures, and ancient fortifications, was my choice for a longer weekend stay.

For this journey, we booked three nights at Rothenburg's charming Romantik Hotel Markusturm, For five generations, the Berger family has hosted visitors from around the world to this perfectly positioned home away from home. The Proprietor, Stephan Berger attends to every detail to ensure guests feel at home. From overseeing the kitchen to providing tips on what to see and do and even transporting my embarrassingly heavy bag to the top of the ancient staircase, Stephan could be counted on - an uncommon experience in most hotel stays these days.

Romantik Hotel Markusturm, Rothenburg ob der Tauber, Germany

To begin our exploration, Stephen suggested taking a walk along the ancient wall that surrounds the city. The wall, which began construction in the 12th century and continued over several centuries, is a well-preserved example of medieval defense. Although it sustained some damage during World War II, it has been extensively restored. The wall has six main gates and numerous pedestrian doors that provide entry into and exit from the town. A dedicated path around the interior wall takes a little over two hours to walk and provides several access points to ascend a narrow set of stairs to walk along the top of the wall. With stunning views from several parts of the wall, we took our time to soak it all in.

Wall surrounding the medieval village of Rothenburg ob der Tauber, Bavaria, Germany

Another essential activity in Rothenburg is the Nightwatchman tour. This hour-long tour begins after sunset when the cobblestone streets are bathed in the glow of lantern light. As you embark on this journey through time, you are accompanied by the Nightwatchman, a character dressed in period attire, who takes on the role of the guardian of the old town. With a lantern in hand, he recounts his experiences and responsibilities, offering a unique perspective on the history of Rothenburg. A highlight of the tour is the recounting of significant historical events, particularly those from the tumultuous period of the Thirty Years' War. The Nightwatchman vividly narrates the dramatic tale of when General Tilly and his troops captured Rothenburg, detailing the strategies employed and the impact of the siege on the townsfolk. This historical account is not just a dry recitation of facts; it is brought to life through the Nightwatchman’s animated storytelling, allowing participants to feel the tension and fear that gripped the town during such a perilous time.

Exploring the unique shops around this ancient village is like few places today. Items are crafted mostly in Germany with incredible attention-to-detail.

Kathe Wohlfahrt Christmas Wonderland, Rothenburg ob der Tauber, Germany

A Christmas wonderland, and also a museum, Kathe Wohlfahrt is the place to find the most beautiful, hand-made Christmas decorations. This enchanting destination is renowned for its breathtaking array of festive ornaments, each crafted with meticulous attention to detail and steeped in tradition. Visitors to Kathe Wohlfahrt are greeted by a magical atmosphere that transports them into a world of holiday cheer and nostalgia. From intricately designed glass baubles that sparkle in the light to charming wooden figurines that capture the essence of Christmas, every item is a testament to the artistry and craftsmanship that define this unique establishment.

Kathe Wohlfahrt Christmas Wonderland, Rothenburg ob der Tauber, Germany

Another store that is surely unique in the world is Waffenkammer, a supply store for all things medieval. From swords, daggers and crossbows to clothing for your Renaissance Fair and one-of-a-kind gifts, this store has merchandise for anyone who loves knights in shining armor. The store creates not just a place to purchase medieval style items, but a place to take a step back in time.

Waffenkammer Renaissance goods, Rothenburg ob der Tauber

With an abundance of museums, a diverse array of shopping options, and even breathtaking hiking opportunities that allow for immersion in the stunning natural landscapes surrounding the town, our three nights in Rothenburg were filled with exploration and discovery. Whether traveling as a couple in search of a romantic escape or as a solo traveler, Rothenburg provides a rich tapestry of experiences that deepen one's appreciation for this enchanting town.

Additional lodging recommendation: Hotel Eisenhut